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Day 33: Extraction day
31 Aug 2011
Enjoying the moment before leaving.
After three long hikes across 75km of bogs, hills and beaches, we spent our final night in the luxurious derelict confines of Isaachsen once again, the final stop of our expedition and from where we would be 'extracted' in the morning. The place is an ex American radar base set up as part of the DEW Line back in the late 1940’s and which shut down in the late 70’s. Given its remoteness the size of the place was staggering, as was the amount of discarded kit still on site – including ATV’s, Caterpillars and other toys (painful sightings given our need for one of these the past 3 days). Whilst it had been turned upside down over the years by other explorers/extreme looters the place was still very much alive with memories of the past.
With any luck this was to be our last night before extraction and once again we slept shoulder to shoulder in one of the old accommodation blocks, if only to keep warm as the temperature plummeted and the wind howled through the smashed windows and doorless doors - another wonderful (but hopefully final) bonding experience. Sleep was again minimal, not helped by Jock's impromptu early morning chorus which shook the building and woke all of us. However given sleeping conditions and a few unfortunate ‘moments’ (such as Dave waking to find himself wedged in under Mark D’s armpit) it was no bad thing that sleep was cut short – and besides today was extraction day.
With the snow falling and fog clinging to the hills there were final anxious moments that the Arctic may have one final trick up its sleeve but following a few words of gentle encouragement from Jock to the air charter company the twin otter touched down on Isaachsen's runway at 11.40am.
So after 33 days out in the wilderness it was finally time to say goodbye to the place we had called home."
It was time to say thankyou and close what had been another exciting chapter in this expedition – and with it you got a distinct feeling summer was closing and winter very much arriving. Richard (our Operations HQ guru) had travelled out with the plane and after a celebratory nip of Old Pulteney the engines started and we set off for Resolute. Having literally bounced up the hill to get to the plane there was a noticeable quiet amongst the crew during the flight, as our route retraced the steps we’d taken over the islands, ice blockades and open water. The landscape below had been our playground and tormentor for the past 32 days and it was weird to be leaving, especially leaving in a plane as opposed to arriving back in the boat. All things being well she will not be out here long
At 2.10pm we landed at Resolute to be greeted by Ozzie. It's amazing to be back but given the recent tragedy also very much tinged with sadness. A plane went down killing 12 two weeks ago which for a community this size must have had a devastating effect. For Jock especially he has developed many close friendships with this part of the world and Resolute in particular and we hope to be able to pay our respects at the memorial service on Friday.
So here we are back in the land of the living, although still very much in the Arctic. We all smell horrific, look like Neanderthals and despite eating well (by expedition standards) seem to have lost a good few pounds along the way. As per any expedition that first look in the mirror has been quite scary for one and all, which could explain Richard’s reluctance to engage in any man hugging back in Isaachsen – nothing a shower (maybe two in some cases) and a change of clothes won’t sort. Thankfully the annual ship delivering supplies to Resolute has just docked in the bay which means food should be plentiful, which is just as well because conversations have focused on little else these past few days. First up will be a cooked breakfast in the morning…and here’s preying it doesn’t involve omelet. Mmm fresh, hot ‘normal’ food…
Voyage nearly at an end
30 Aug 2011
The Crew stand proudly by the 'Old Pulteney'
The crew approach the final stages of the trip and dream of home comforts.
To get from landfall to the extraction point, where a plane could collect the crew, many miles of hiking over rough terrain were needed. To make matters worse, due to the amount of kit, the hike would have to be done twice...
Watch this video to hear about the hardships of trekking over through the high Arctic.
Our day at the Pole
28 Aug 2011
The Crew at the '96 Magnetic North Pole
You would expect an expedition blog to wind down once you've reached the finish line. Well, there is very little of this adventure that has followed a rule book...including our ending.
The last 36 hours have been a roller-coaster for us and once again a story of two halves. Part One saw us flying along unopposed towards our goal until BOOM, just as we were preparing to crack open the bottles of Old Pulteney, we were hit by this fiercesome blockade of ice. So Part Two began.
My fears in Thor Island about a final Arctic assault had really come true big time: she had summoned her troops and set out one last challenge. 10 hours later we had won the battle and celebrate success. But the war was by no means over.
The weather gods clearly didn't share our joy in finishing. We awoke to skies thick with freezing fog."
Jock set up his very own media centre in the forward cabin, occasionally summoning one of us to bring him more coffee or breakfast - on demand . Well, he’s the skipper. Anyway, while lord muck was lounging in his suite, the rest of us got to work with planning the day's movements.
Dave and Mark D went off to do a ‘recce’ of the area to see if there were any leads or obvious routes that would help get us to land . At this stage land, no matter where, was our priority. They returned with news that the leads had increased, but still ice locked. They sketched out a proposed route, but as per yesterday, much of it would be decided as we traveled. Little by little, metre by metre, we would try and edge our way forwards, hopefully towards our planned extraction point some 19nm away.
It was amazing how upbeat and game the crew was for the challenge that lay ahead. Not one person had dropped their head at the propsect of another day (may be two) dragging and pulling the boat over the ice and rowing. True team spirit.
... finesse wasn't on the cards as pick axes, pulleys and a good old dose of brute force were applied liberally to get the OLD PULTENEY moving."
Within the space of 2 hours we could see a prominent lead in the distance. If we could reach that then this could provide a waterway towards dry land. So, we packed the boat, got in to our cold water gear and set off. Whilst the horizon looked more promising what was noticeable was the rate at which the water was freezing. The leads from yesterday hadn't closed up with 'bergs but had, in fact, started to freeze. In some places what was free flowing water was now 25-30mm of ice. It’s more proof of how lucky we’d been to get here so quickly. Days clearly counted. Anyway Mark D, Rob S, Dave M and myself took to the waters and the 'bergs to make a start in clearing a route for the OP, whilst Jock and Mark B took care of operations on board. Mark D led the operation masterfully.
Hats off to Mark D and Dave M for a masterclass in Arctic swimming. Suffice to say, they are no seals when it comes to grace in the water, but very effective ice breakers nonetheless."
Check out this video of taken yesterday of the crew crossing an ice field for the first time, on the final day of the expedition...
After approx 2 hours of wading, whacking and winding our way through and over the ice, we finally made it to the bigger lead. It had actually opened up even more giving us hope we could get back to rowing and get all the way to our planned extraction point. So we all clambered aboard. Mark D, Dave M and myself took to the oars in the hope of warming up. Poor Rob got the short straw as, despite being wet and cold, he was tasked (as reigning 'hero helmsman') with guiding us to land. It was a posioned challice if ever there was one.
After a few lusty blows to the ice from the oars we were free...at last - something that was greeted with a massive cheer from the crew as we finally broke from the clutches of the suffocating ice field.
With strong N.Easterlies (20+ knots) rowing head on into the wind was tough going, but given the past couple of days it was all relative, and a great way to get the blood flowing and our senses back! Whilst we only had to travel about approx 5 miles, it took us 3 hours. I must make a special mention to Rob's claim that we were 100 metres from land. It took us an hour to cover!
Our desired route to the extraction point at Isachsen was blocked with ice so we had to make do with beaching further down the coast. For us all another euphoric moment just to have made land. Fittingly, Jock powered us home for the final few strokes bellowing out at the top of his lungs one final rousing speech: another spine tingling moment akin to that on our departure day in Resolute (A Braveheart moment?).
Tomorrow on to Isachsen's airfield.
Hard work continues
27 Aug 2011
The crew face a hard trek after their goal is reached.