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A Rob that cried wolf

23 Aug 2011

Wolves on Thor Island

  • Author Billy Gammon
  • TagsArctic, Science

The Gray Wolf is an animal that epitomizes the wilderness. Over the past 4 days stuck on Thor various splinter groups have been off exploring the island. With little of the island left to explore the 'wolf hunter', aka Rob offered to take Mark B and I on a guided tour to try and find the elusive wolves once more - we had all seen hundreds of tracks but other than Rob none of us had seen any wildlife here.

Just as we were giving up and had turned around our tour guide spotted a family of wolves playing on the nearby hillside. There they were before our very eyes, a couple of young cubs with an adult.

It's moments like these that turn ordinary days in to extraordinary experiences - hearts pumping and smiles beaming. Yet again we were reminded just how lucky we are to be out here."

Whilst we were all thrilled to see some wolves, this animal stirs contrasting reactions among humans, from persecution to protection. Traditionally, people of the North have not held such polarized views of the wolf. It was a respected animal being associated with shamans. Further these Arctic aboriginal people once believed wolves to be totemic - an ancient ancestor.

" The wolf originally was the most widely distributed land mammal other than the human, living everywhere from about 10o N latitude to the North Pole area. Thus it is well adapted to the extreme conditions! ” Dave Mech

It wasn’t until the medieval period in Europe that man’s view of the wolf changed. Our agriculture encroached into the wilderness and we systemically replaced wolves prey with our domesticated animals. This led to human wolf conflict, with the last English wolf being killed in the early 16 century. This European persecution of wolf spread, as settlers moved across North America, with their eradication of wolves representing an effort to tame the wilderness.

When wolves hunt they are known for waiting and observing, being calculating in their decisions. Maybe some of the wolf’s strategic patience can rub off on us!

Check out Dave Mech's work on the Arctic Gray Wolves

Baby Boost

22 Aug 2011

  • Author Mark Delstanche
  • Tags Crew

Mark celebrates the news of becoming a father.

Waiting for the final push

21 Aug 2011

  • Author Billy Gammon
  • TagsArctic, Boat, Crew, Endurance, Rowing

Ice harvesting and waiting at Thor

21 Aug 2011

To get fresh water the team is hacking ice from 'bergs floating nearby

  • Author Billy Gammon
  • TagsArctic, Boat, Crew, Endurance, Rowing

We are so near and yet so far...50 odd miles...still a long way, but you feel like you can almost see it!

After a torrid night on board the OLD PULTENEY the night before last, followed by an excitable 'beaching' involving an impromptu dip in to the bracing Arctic Ocean it was great to be able to escape the close confines of the boat to the relative freedom of Thor Island's shore - and for the aft cabin boys a welcome break from another taxing game of twister. The sustained sprints of the past few days, coupled with little if any sleep had left the bodies weary and our heads fighting that torturous battle of excitement versus exhaustion. However spirits were high and smiles broad as we were now in a great position to make the final advance. Right now we are so very near...

After another sumptuos meal, including apples and custard (with a best before date of Aug '08!), the evening ended with a crew bonding 'jackanory' session around the Toughbook to hear all the messages of support from friends, family and followers. With the biting Arctic wind howling outside it was of enormous comfort to hear all the reports of heat waves in various parts of the world - and thanks to all those of you who spilled the beans on so many of the crew's best kep secrets, each and everyone of us now feels suitably humiliated but also far better informed about each others true personas! Joking aside thankyou to all concerned (spanning some 15 countries) and please keep them coming as there's nothing better to keep the spirits high than to receive your messages of support.

We awoke today to sub zero temperatures, snow in the skies and a freshening breeze from the West.

What had been a relatively ice free shoreline on arrival had now become heavily congested with ice bergs, all blown in with the winds over night. I know it's been said before but it's truly amazing just how quickly the surrounds can change out here - and we're so very lucky to have Kim and Chris on board to offer their expert guidance and advice on the weather and ice forecasts, both absolutely crucial to the success of this campaign and more importantly the sfae passage of the OP and crew.

Given the current ice state here and for our proposed route onwards, and the indifferent forecast it looks as though we're going to have to hunker down for a few days and await conditions to improve. With ice choking the path ahead and a weather bomb due to land we can't be taking any risks. The waiting is often harder than the punishing sprint work on the oars, if only because it's shrouded in uncertainty...which for this crew invariably leads to immense frustration. Time on the oars is very simple - you just strap yourself in and paddle hard...for however long as the conditions will allow. This the brain can programme for, but waiting is another thing altogether.

All that said never in our wildest dreams did we think we would be this far north already, so whilst news of a possible/probable extended delay isn't what we were hoping for we're also mindful about just how fortunate we have been to date. Yes we're desperate to keep going but there's a much more widespread feeling of acceptance this time around, safe in the knowledge that we're still on course to achieve our goal...and with it Jock's destiny.

So with no chance of any action today the day started with an ever improving version of omlette - still fit for nothing more than dogs, although given the local Arctic wolves don't even want it I remain unconvinced that it's fit for any living species. Post breakfast the latest forecasts were studied in our temporary nerve centre as planning enters the critical phase. Sadly it doesn't look pretty for the next 2 days so until then we'll be on standby should things change. Ho hum, more time to hone our plans for the final countdown.

Having beaching the boat on shore (and mindful of ongoing power limitations) we can't use the water maker, so Mark D made the call to go and harvest our own. Unlike most of the previous islands visited Thor is very flat with little free flowing fresh water - not helped by the flat, sandy landscape. An alternative source is to use old,mature ice bergs - easily identifiable by their striking blue colouring. So without further a do Mark D and Dave M donned their dry suits and waded out to sea complete with pick axes, rope,ice screws and a saw...both very much in their element and frothing at the mouth with excitement (candy store and kids springs to mind)! Having identified the 'perfect' berg they got to work. 1/2 hour later and they were done...not to mention cold. It had been a successful mission and they returned to the shoreline to a heroes welcome. From there the ice was loaded on to a couple of pulks which their sherpas then transported back to camp. As I write this blog the ice is still ice, such is the temperature outside but we'll look to defrost it tomorrow with the help of the MSR cooker.

Ice sculpture kit for harvesting ice

With the water 'done' the rest of the day was a mix of cards (which is an altogether more enjoyable experience now Jock has 'rewarded' himself with a clean pair of socks) and exploratory walks across the island. With fresh animal tracks in abundance a few of us set off in search of the elusive muscox and the Arctic wolf which Rob had spotted yesterday. However apart from Rob, who once again spotted a wolf none of us saw anything - apart from a lot of tracks, droppings and the occassional bird. Clearly there's no Sir David Attenborough amongst this crew...but, weather permitting, the search will go on although the latest forecast now suggests we may be confined to sleeping bags and shelter as the Arctic plans an assault on our base!

STOP PRESS
By the time you read this blog Mark D could be a dad for the first time as word has reached us that Helene has just gone in to hospital...needless to say all the crew wish her all the very best. Thor appears to the frontrunner as the bookmakers favourite name.

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